The citrus zing that freshens your breath all day

The fact that I have a lemon tartlette in my blog header should be a good indication that I enjoy lemon desserts. If lemon is part of the description when it comes to any tart, pie, bar, cupcake, or pudding, chances are I will eat it.

The main reason I love lemon desserts is that a lemon tart was what I would consider the first fancy-ish dessert I ever successfully made. Up until the lemon tart, I was pretty much sticking to basic recipes like fudge and brownies. However, the day I whipped up a lemon tart for the time, I felt accomplished, like I found something I was actually quite good at. Since that fateful day in my kitchen, lemons represent my love for baking and pastry. I guess the old saying of "when life hands you lemons, make lemonade" applies here. If I hadn't been laid off from my job, I never would have started this blog which eventually led me to the bounty that are lemon desserts.

There are two other reasons I love lemon desserts. The first reason is obviously taste. I find that with lemon dishes, especially bars and tarts, the pop of citrus flavor stays in your mouth all day. I find that to be the sign of a good dessert - if hours later, you can still taste the main flavor. I find nothing more satisfying than hours after eating a lemon bar, I can still taste it on the roof of my mouth. The only problem with this is that it leaves me wanting more. I've been known to eat entire lemon tarts in less than two days. But hey - I'm a dessert blogger. The way I see it, I'm supposed to eat loads of dessert as it's part of the job description.

The second reason I love lemony desserts is the aesthetic appeal. In my almost 28 years, I've never seen an ugly lemon dessert. The taste might be horrible and intestine twisting at times, but damn if lemon goodies don't present themselves well.

This year, I've become a devote user of the Baking Unplugged cookbook. I won't go into my usual speech of how it's probably one of the greatest baking cookbooks ever written as I typically do when the book comes up in this blog. But trust me - it's one of the greatest baking cookbooks ever written. So, after trying out the recipe for cream scones and having a successful result, I ventured further into the book. What did I find? Lemon squares. Delicious, yummy, easy-to-make lemon squares.

Prior to this baking endeavor, I had never made my own lemon squares, and my experience with this particular baked good has been a mixed bag. I've eaten some decent lemon squares at bakeries and coffee shops in my time. Last Christmas time, my sister received some Barefoot Contessa lemon square mix in her stocking, and although the results were kind of mushy (by no fault of my sister), the taste was pretty good. However, I feel that every lemon square I've eaten up until this point has lacked the zing of flavor I described earlier. The lemon squares of my past simply supplied me with enough lemon zestiness that could easily be found in most sub-par lemonade.

To my readers that have hung out with me in real life and not just on this blog, you know what one problem I have with baking is that after I try a recipe, I always say it's easy. Now I'm not a trained pastry chef, but I know I've pissed off quite a few people by referring to a recipe as easy, only to have a friend find themselves contemplating sticking their head in the oven instead of the prepared dough after spending an hour with a recipe I recommended. However, I promise you these lemon squares are simple. If you can mix ingredients together in a bowl, you can make these lemon bars.

As someone obsessed with her Scottish heritage (when I say "obsessed," I mean that i get really excited about the idea of visiting Edinburgh and I can tell the difference between Scottish, Irish, and English accents), I knew I was going to love the Baking Unplugged lemon bars when I saw the recipe called for a shortbread crust. The simple, buttery flavor of the crust provides a nice subtle background to showcase the lemon flavors. Plus, who can deny a crust with such a high butter content? It just tastes really good.


Also, as someone who loves the simplicity of a "pat in the pan" dough, the shortbread crust was ideal. After mixing the ingredients to form the dough, all one has to do is dump the dough into a 13 x 9 baking dish and mush the dough evenly along the bottom. If you have hands, you can mush. Easy peasy.

The lemon curd is second part of the recipe. After reading about my love affair with lemons earlier in this blog post, let me be clear on one thing: Although I love lemons and the desserts they produce, I absolutely loathe zesting any sort of fruit. Similar to my fear of tripping on subway stairs and knocking out my front teeth (something that has not happened to this day), I have an innate fear of accidentally zesting my hand or finger while tackling a lemon. Not only would the act of tearing flesh hurt, you get the added one-two punch of having acidic citrus juice in your wound. But, this recipe calls for zesting, so I zested. Unwillingly, mind you!

And is it just me, or is the word "curd" kind of gross? I don't know why I always envision some of grotesque nature when I hear "curd," but I'm willing to bet it's because it rhymes so easily with...well, you get the picture.


Anyway, back to the dessert. After baking, the lemon squares must sit for 1 to 2 hours. I hated this part of the recipe because after I pulled these bad boys out of the oven, I wanted to dig in. However, I witnessed the benefits of waiting. The puffiness of the baked curd subsided and I was left with beautifully yellow-hued lemon squares. Since I'm a lemon purist, I didn't bother with the suggested dusting of powdered sugar, but that's an option you might like to employ. Powdered sugar is also a great way to hide any blemishes on the squares' surface.

One last thing: Nicole Rees, author of Baking Unplugged, suggests using hazelnuts or almonds in the crust, I've eliminated them in the recipe below as I didn't use them in my final product.


Recipe for Lemon Squares (from Baking Unplugged by Nicole Rees)

Equipment:
13 x 9 Baking pan
Foil
Wooden spoon
Measuring cups
Measuring spoons
Whisk
Zester
Cooling rack
Juicer

Crust Ingredients:
14 Tbs. unsalted butter, melted and cooled to just warm
1/2 c. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
2 C. all-purpose flour

Lemon Curd Ingredients:
4 large eggs
1 1/4 C. sugar
3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1/8 tsp. salt
3/4 C. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs. grated lemon zest
Powdered sugar (optional)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a 13 x 9 baking pan with foil, leaving an overhanging edge for easy removal. Lightly butter the sides of foil (not the bottom) to prevent the lemon curd from sticking. In a medium bowl, stir together the butter, sugar, and salt until just combined. Add the flour and stir until dough just come together. Press the mixture evenly into the pan. Prick the dough with a fork. Refrigerate for 30 minutes (or freeze for 5 to 7 minutes), until the dough is firm.

Bake for 25-minute, until the crust begins to set but has not bun to brown at the edges (the center will not be firm yet).

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, flour, and salt until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk in the lemon juice and zest. Pour the filling over the hot crust. Return the pan to oven and increase the heat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake for 20 minutes or until the center is set and the edges are golden. The topping will no longer wiggle when the pan is moved. Place the pan on a wire rack to cool for 1 to 2 hours. When the bottom of the pan is cool, carefully lift the bars from the pan using the foil overhang and transfer them to a cutting board. Cut into 2" squares. Dust with powdered sugar, if desired, before serving.

This recipe yields 2 dozen lemon squares.

My very first dinner party with Rote Grütze

I woke up this morning feeling hungry, which normally isn't unusual, but considering that I ate an Easter feast big enough to feed an entire village of carnivores just 10 hours earlier, I was a bit weirded out by my stomach pains.

I threw my first dinner party last night, and when I say dinner party, I mean dinner party - long table with white table cloth, decorative candles for ambient lighting, homemade napkin rings (and you better believe I mean cloth napkins), and a perfect mix of music that kept the conversation going for three hours. Nine friends attended and at the end of the night, everyone was stuffed off of honey-glazed ham, mixed vegetables, polenta, crescent rolls, and of course, dessert.


My friend Heidi made a delicious German dessert called Rote Grütze, which is a type of berry pudding. I had never tasted Rote Grütze before, but the best way to describe it would be this: If you could siphon the Summer season into a goblet and serve with whipped cream, it would be Rote Grütze.

I did a bit of research this morning into this German delicacy, and found some interesting information from a 1991 New York Times article. Rote Grütze ("red grits") originates from northern Germany where an array of berries make their delectable appearance in Summer. Basically, red currants, raspberries, cherries, as well as the occasional blackberry or black currant, are cooked with sugar and cornstarch (and in some recipes, German wine) and served with a simple topping.


According to the New York Times:

In the old days Rote Grütze was not a dessert at all but a light summer supper, served with cold milk or cream. Today it is most often served with vanilla sauce, and since the 1970's, when it was suddenly pronounced chic, Rote Grütze can be found at the toniest restaurants and cafes, as well as at Great Aunt Emma's place out in the country.

Depending on whose great-aunt's recipe is being followed, Rote Grutze may contain such optional additions as strawberries, blueberries, rhubarb, a glass of red wine or even a jigger of brandy. What is required in one recipe is disregarded in another. Some profess that the only proper Rote Grutze contains two-thirds red currants; others insist that any amount of any red berries will do. Some swear that the addition of water is anathema, others that a small glass of water is absolutely essential. Purists generally agree, however, that the dessert is never overly sweet, and they draw the line at the addition of gelatin, warning the uninitiated that its addition will produce a stiff aspic.

I know Heidi is into ghosts and scary movies, but I'm beginning to think she might be a mind reader as well, because I can't think of a better accompaniment to my offering of the evening - a lemon tart. Served either on the side or on top, Rote Grütze was a fantastic addition to my basic lemon dessert.

Aside from the food, the event was a huge success in that everyone had a lovely time. It was great seeing some familiar faces (Heidi, John, Jessica, Erikka, Emily, Will), a face I don't get to see often enough because of geography (Mickey), and a new face (Scott). I don't think I could have asked for a better Easter dinner - great friends, great food and great conversation.

The pictures I've posted are of the table pre-food, and then of the ham (obviously). No one took photos of the desserts, which I apologize about - we were too busy stuffing our faces and about half-way into our collective food coma.

Fun fact about lemons

Ladies in the court of King Louis XIV used lemons to redden their lips.

I wonder if lemon-flavored desserts would work too?!

Recipe of the Day - Lemon Thyme Cream Puffs

I'm on a big lemon kick lately, which is slightly weird because generally, I'm not a huge fan of lemons. But the past few weeks, I can't seem to get enough of them, whether it comes in the form of a cocktail or dessert. Must be my Spring fever coming out.

So, I'm happy to share today's Recipe of the Day - Lemon Thyme Cream Puffs. You can't really go wrong when you eat something that contains the words "cream" and "puff," but now I believe I have to add "lemon" to that list.


"Mary Ann has lemon fever" Lemon Thyme Cream Puffs Recipe

Equipment:
Measuring spoons
Measuring cups
Cooling rack
Parchment paper
2 baking sheets
Mixing bowls
Rolling pin
Saucepan
Sieve
Pastry bag w/ plain tip

Ingredients:
1/2 of a 17.3-ounce package Pepperidge Farm® Puff Pastry Sheets (1 sheet)
1 egg
1 tablespoon water
2 tablespoons sanding sugar *
1 cup heavy cream
3 large sprigs fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup prepared lemon curd
4 ounces white chocolate, chopped

Thaw the pastry sheet at room temperature for 40 minutes or until it's easy to handle. Heat the oven to 400°F. Lightly grease or line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Beat the egg and water in a small bowl with a fork.

Unfold the pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface. Roll the pastry sheet into a 12-inch square. Brush with the egg mixture. Cut the pastry into 36 (2-inch) squares. Sprinkle with the sugar. Place the pastry squares onto the baking sheets.

Bake for 10 minutes or until the pastries are puffed and golden. Remove the pastries from the baking sheets and cool on wire racks.

Heat 1/3 cup cream and thyme sprigs in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the cream mixture steep for 30 minutes or until it cools to room temperature. Pour the cream mixture through a sieve. Discard the thyme. Refrigerate the cream mixture for 1 hour or until it's well chilled.

Beat the remaining cream in a large bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until soft peaks form. Add the chilled cream mixture and lemon curd. Beat until stiff peaks form. Spoon the cream mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip.

Pipe about about1 tablespoon lemon thyme cream mixture into each pastry puff.

Place the chocolate into a small microwavable bowl. Microwave on HIGH for about 1 minute. Stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Drizzle the chocolate over the pastry puffs. Let stand until the chocolate sets.

Serves 36.


Recipe from Puff Pastry.com.

My favorite bakery and café in Portland - St. Honoré Boulangerie

If you happen to be in Northwest Portland, you HAVE to stop by St. Honoré Boulangerie. I very rarely say this, but this little café and bakery rivals many that I have visited in New York and has easily become a favorite of mine in Portland.

Although I have only tasted two items on the menu, I was blown away by the flavors and sheer visual artistry put into their desserts. Master Baker Dominique Geulin and his baking team – many of them students at Portland's Western Culinary Institute - are some of the finest talents I've seen outside of Paris.


Although it was difficult to choose - everything I saw in the pastry/dessert case had my mouth watering - I chose the following two desserts to sample:

Saint Honoré
Puff pastry and pate á choux base filled with pastry cream and whipped cream, topped with caramelized cream filled choux.


I chose this particular dessert for three reasons: 1.) It incorporated the name of this blog, 2.) It caught my eye the second I peered into the dessert case and 3.) I'm a sucker for whipped cream and caramel. I don't believe the pastry could have been more delicate and the cream was just right the texture to melt in your mouth.

Tarte au Citron
A smooth and rich lemon custard on a bed of almond cream in a paté sablé shell.

Lemon tarts are probably one of my all-time favorite desserts. My best friend Emily makes a mean lemon tartlet, and if you had been there the first time she whipped up these little beauties you would have seen how ravenous I ate my piece. So, when I saw that St. Honoré Boulangerie had their own version, I had to try (and really, who cares if you eat two desserts before 10:30 in the morning...). And boy, I'm glad I did. The lemon custard was divine and nailed the accurate flavor. My only complaint was I found the crust a bit too tough, but the almond cream made up for that in the end. All in all, I'd eat this tart again (and again...and again...).


My experience at St. Honoré Boulangerie was absolutely the best food I had while visiting Portland. I can't speak highly enough of this place. From the Parisian atmosphere, DELICIOUS food and extremely nice staff, I can't wait for another trip out west so I can indulge my St. Honoré obsession once again.

On an interesting side note, I learned why the bakery has its name. According to what I learned at the shop, St. Honoré Boulangerie is named for the patron saint of bakers, Saint Honoré. History says that a young man named Honoré became the Bishop of Amiens in 554. During his service a number of miraculous events occurred, which spared farmers, millers, and bakers from natural disasters. Residents of France connected the miracles with Bishop Honoré and in 1204 a Parisian baker built a chapel to commemorate him. Today, the chapel is no longer standing, but the name, Saint Honoré, is etched in a gate leading to Faubourg and Rue Saint Honoré in the heart of Paris.

When in Portland, visit:
St. Honoré Boulangerie
2335 NW Thurman Street
Portland, OR 97210
P: (503) 445-4342
W: www.sainthonorebakery.com